Mexico.- Who invented the famous Mexican dish called ‘huarache’ was a female cook named Carmen Gómez Medina in 1935.
Before inventing the huarache, Carmelita didn’t even know how to roast the dough to make tortillas. He belonged to a wealthy family in the city and fell in love with Andrés Suárez, a peasant and waterer with whom, unlike classes, he could not marry. In the face of opposition from Carmen’s family, they decided to escape to be together. What they didn’t count on is that, years later, Carmen would be widowed at 30 and with no way to support her family.
Doña Carmen started her business with a comal, an anafre and a couple of banks. At first she sold sopes, chubby and tlacoyos, but her chubby ones were too expensive to be so small. Each cost 5 cents, and if we consider that for 10 cents one could eat a whole duck, customers preferred to buy other wilants.
Carmelita didn’t let her guard down or its prices, her most loyal customers knew they paid for the delicious sauces they could only try at that stall: a guajillo red and a cuckoo chili green.
The huarache was born as a special order for a butcher of the market who asked Ms. Carmen to roast her a rib and serve her on two of her chubby. From there, Carmelita started making the chubby ones bigger. The customers at first said, «What’s the matter with you, Carmelita. First she gives us some thumbnails of chubby and it charges us faces, and now these are very large, they even look like huaraches», to which she replied: «Huaraches on the legs, these are chubby!» Carmelita didn’t like the name «huarache» very much, but ended up adopting it by force majeure.
In 1950, when the government decided to pipe the La Viga Canal and build the Jamaican Market, Carmelita received a place to sell its huaraches. There he was not as successful as in the position, so he decided to leave the market for a place that was more visible. He found one on Torno Street, one block from the market in the Graphic Arts colony. That’s where the huarache became what it is today.