translated from Spanish: Designer Emilio de la Morena presents his most personal collection in London

London.- Marked by that sexy elegance that is so successful among its most famous clients, the new collection of the Spanish dressmaker Emilio de la Morena, presented on Monday in London, is a catharsis of internal conflicts that caused him the confinement.” We are always working and all of a sudden you stop and it is like your life doesn’t make sense,” this Alicante, installed in the British capital for two decades, explains the emotions unleashed by almost three months of confinement.
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“I wondered how to turn a problem into something beautiful, into beauty,” she adds, surrounded by her spring/summer 2021 collection, one of the few physically presented in a very mostly virtual London Fashion Week due to the pandemic. At a time when no one was going out, let alone at night, I had planned to make “very day” garments, he acknowledges. But a reflection of the creative process, inspired by artists such as Eduardo Chillida or Louise Bourgeois, led him to a conclusion: “I’m going to be me.” The result is twenty cocktail garments, in five colours – white, black, fuchsia, crimson red and tomato red – corresponding to five “conflicts” – rage, money, sex, noise and obsession – identified by the creator during confinement. The dresses are very long or very short: “I was looking for the ends,” he says. Made exclusively from the fabrics he had in his studio, they are made of soft layers of satin that are wavy from the neck to the tail or with stretch bands that stick to the body by knots that let the skin from the neckline to the hips between.

Despite having studied fashion at the London Saint Martins school and worked with the very British Jonathan Saunders, De la Morena claims its Spanish roots: intense colors, very tight cuts, profusion of ruffles. And his admiration for great dressmakers like Christopher Balenciaga.- Think of the female body –
In this collection, plasticized seds form bulky pleats. The necklines are pronounced in V, by refined boat or in elegant word of honor. Few dresses have sleeves, some one shoulder covered and the other uncovered. There are transparencies and long leg cuts from the waist, especially in long dresses, exposed as totems in very tall mannequins accompanied by wooden sculptures that go back to the artistic vocation of the dressmaker.
De la Morena, better known and recognized outside that within Spain, whose creations have seduced from Gwyneth Paltrow to Leighton Meester passing through Lana del Rey, studied Economic Sciences to please his family and be able to expatriate. It was precisely with a job as a business consultant that he arrived in London with the new millennium and, faced with the dissatisfaction of this profession, decided with 30 years to change course and devote himself to his passion, art, and from there to fashion. The confinement sent him back to an ancient love of sculpture and together with fashion designs he created works using objects from his surroundings, from the docks of his mattress to pieces of wood accumulated in the workshop, which dialogue with the mannequins according to those five “conflicts”. To make them he turned to merchants and craftsmen around him, forming a community that allowed him to break loneliness and isolation and whose support he claims to be very grateful for. “I’ve also realized that I’ve always created fashion as if it were a sculpture,” he explains. And he declares himself determined to design more thinking about the woman’s body because, he says, when he sees his garments worn by some celebrity he is sometimes surprised by the result. Confinement was also business. He had many orders cancelled from the last collection – “people no longer needed evening dresses,” he explains, “and he had to put all his staff in technical stoppage from April to August. But now it resurfaces renewed, with more sales to private customers than to luxury stores, and even distribution by Amazon. This pandemic “I think it’s changing everything,” he says.

Original source in Spanish

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